Know the facts

Shana says that one of the fundamental areas of acne treatment is understanding what’s going wrong in your skin. This can help with prevention. She points out that if you have problem skin:

• You have more sebaceous follicles producing more oil

• You have more dead skin cell buildup (4-5 times more than the average person)
.
• You have overactive androgens (male hormones that stimulate the sebaceous
 follicle.
• You have more P-Acnes which create havoc in the skin follicle.

So, on the average you have five times the amount of all the above mentioned points.

Take action!

Shana says now that you understand the triggers and how your skin functions, treatment can begin.
Here’s how:




• You’ll need something to mop up the excess oil. Ingredients like microsponges that have the ability to hold up to four times their weight in oil and keep your skin matt for up to eight hours are key. Oil absorbing Kaolin clays , Bentonite clay are also fantastic at absorbing excess oil.
• Next we’re going to need an exfoliant to remove excess dead skin build-up. If your lesions are inflamed, avoid any granular scrubs. Opt for a hydroxy acid (Salycilic acid, lactic acid) or fruit enzyme(Papain, Bromelain exctract) exfoliant. Possibly utilize a serum or concentrate that will help increase cell turnover during the day.
• Balance the hormones and stress factors to help with the androgen stimulation and avoid stimulants altogether! Do something makes you happy everyday!
• Get your hands on anti-bacteria working agents are the likes of Tee tree, Zinc Gluconate, Balm mint, Rosemary, Sulphur. These work hand in hand with anti-inflammatories to prevent the inflammatory pathway from starting. Remember that inflammation in a lession will result in scarring if you press/pick it! Ingredients to look out for are oat extract, Zinc Sulphate, Green Tea, Panthenol, Spirea and Menthol.


Seek medical help!

Shana says: “When we asses who treats what grade of acne skin, many of us skin experts use a basic rule. Any lesions that fall into grade 3 and 4 acnes i.e. (cyctic, nodular inflammatory lesions) we prefer to refer out to the dermatologists.”

“Anything that would be classified as a grade 1 and 2 acne lesion (non-inflammatory lesions is more than treatable with your skin expert. I have had incredible results with the professional line of skin products that we use and recommend. So don’t get depressed about your skin, know the facts and line yourself up with a skin expert that can change your life! “

You’re not alone

Suffering from acne, especially if you’re well into your 20’s and 30’s, can be very trying. Your confidence takes a dent and you sometimes feel oh so helpless. But, remember, you’re not alone. In fact…

• 17 million adults around the world are diagnosed with Acne.

• 50% of them are adult woman and 25% are adult men.

• In the past years the average age of an acne sufferer was 20.5 years. Nowadays 
it’s 26.5 years.

• It’s also been noted that adult acne is more persistent than teen acne and
scarring is more prevalent due to the skin loosing its ability to repair itself
because of aging!

• Clinical studies indicate that 40-55 % of the adult population in the 20-40 age 
group are diagnosed with low grade, persistent acne and oily skin.


Wow, what scary stats, yet they are so very true. Shana says not a day goes by where they  don’t deal with an inquiry about problematic or acne skins. She points out that with spring and summer knocking on our door, you’ll find that the area of your skin that has enlarged pores will start to shine somewhat more as the temperatures rise! This will spell trouble for the acne skin sufferers.

Choose your products wisely

Shana, a long acne sufferer herself, says her skin’s been brought under control by the skin line she uses but she always has to change her routine when summer arrives. That’s because her winter skin moisturizer simply becomes far to rich and she feels feel like she’s dripping with oil all day long!
So, what triggers it?


• Mankind and stress: triggered by hormones acne can occur at any stage of our lifespan! The primary aggravating factor is chronic stress. We all know that acute stress or temporary stress can aggravate a breakout from time to time. But Shana says chronic, continued stress increased hormone levels and this will result in more oil production.
• Internal factors : The psychological effects of adult acne can contribute to continued flare ups and breakouts. When we’re frustrated by the sight of the flare-ups , it causes additional emotional stress, which will lead to increased oil production and an ever ongoing cycle of breakouts. Medications (discontinuation of the contraceptive pill, diet pills, anti-depressants, epileptic meds) may also play a role.
• External factors: These include:

  - Picking or squeezing breakouts places even more acne causing bacteria on the skin.
  - Cosmetics are the primary culprits in adult acne. Especially those that contain fragrance and plastics. Beware hair sprays, hair gels and hair waxes as many contain plastics that block the pores and cause breakouts Beware PVP, CVP and copolymer ingredients. Waterproof/smudge proof cosmetics and sunscreens contain these plastics!
  - Your environment : UV rays, seasons, climate,  poor diet nutrition and pollution all play a role ( humidity increases oil productions, as does heat over a stove-chef, Laundromat workers)
.
  - Friction: synthetic fibers , areas of friction from phones and clothing

* Shana Sandri is owner of and therapist at M.E.G (Men’s Executive Grooming.) She has a SAAHSP(SA national Diploma) in Somatology and Cidesco (International) diploma in Somatology. Shana is also a postgraduate in Sports Injury Massage, trigger point therapy and Facilitated stretching techniques (Dr. Sean Lewis); Aromatherapy and Reflexology. Shana can be contacted on 031 5665895.

The industry was buzzing with excitement around these new findings in essential fatty acids and when I began to research and understand their impact on our bodies, I realized how the lack thereof could explain why so many illnesses were so prevalent in our community; they soon became one of my most favorite supplements.

Three years later everybody knows that they need Omega 3’s but the question is: Why or how much ?

90% of manufacturers misuse the fact that Omega 3 is a “new concept” and market poor quality products. Products like omega-3 eggs, omega-3 margarine, etc. are not necessarily “bad foods”, but they are unjustly recommended as health care supplements.

The reality is that much higher doses are required to achieve therapeutic effects. For instance you would need to eat 3 tubs of margarine in order to get your daily dose of Omega-3. The same applies to the most fish oil supplements that comprise of Omega 3-6-9 oils. Interestingly omega-6-9 are easily obtained through as much as 1 tbsp olive oil /week and are thus not considering factors when choosing your Omega-3 supplement.

Why is a daily intake of EPA/DHA necessary?

The body cannot produce its own omega-3 EPA or DHA, but can extract these fatty acids from a diet rich in Omaga-3 fatty acids. However omega-3 diets are rare in our western diet. Most vegetables that are available on the market (corn oil, sunflower seed oil etc.) and the majority of processed foods you find in the supermarket most contain omega-6 fatty acids and no or hardly any omega-3 fatty acids. That means that we consume approximately 20 times the amount of omega-6 than omega-3. Consequently western civilization is omega -3 insufficient. A direct correlation exists between the increase of depression, suicide, ADHD (a disease of the western world) and a lack of omega-3 fatty acids.

Who needs a high-purity EPA supplement?

Those who suffer from inflammatory diseases like eczema, acne, psoriasis; aching creaking joints. Research has shown that persons with behavioral problems and learning difficulties do best with a fish oil like EPA. In order to support the functioning of conventional antidepressants, one recommends to depressive patients to take the purest possible EPA supplements. Those with high cholesterol counts and a history of cardiovascular disorders

Physical signs of Fatty Acid Deficiency:

• Excessive thirst
• Frequent urination
• Rough or dry skin (esp. if this has a bumpy appearance or feel)
• Dry, dull or lifeless hair
• Soft or brittle nails
• Poor immune function and blood circulation
• Chronic fatigue
• Allergic tendencies (such as eczema, asthma, hayfever)
• Visual symptoms (poor night vision or light sensitivity or visual disturbances like words moving when reading)
• Attention Problems: Distractibility, poor concentration and difficulties in working memory)
• Emotional Sensitivity: Esp. depressive tendencies, excessive mood swings or undue anxiety)
• Poor Sleep patterns: Esp. difficulties in settling at night and waking in the morning

How can I increase my intake of EPA?

Our bodies poorly convert omega-3 fatty acids, from fatty fish, nuts and seeds into EPA and DHA.
The only type of food that contains the important omega-3 fatty acid is fish oil.

Vegetarian sources of omega-3 are linseed and sesame seed but they only contain alpha-linoleic acid (ALA). In theory the body converts ALA to EPA and DHA, however studies have shown this is not effective in practice. Thus it is preferable to take a direct dose of EPA/DHA in addition to ALA from flaxseed, grain or flax oils.

How much is enough?

Scientific research shows that adult doses of 500mg-2000mg/ day of EPA achieve the best results. Half the amount is sufficient for children under the age of five. Most fish oils contain lower doses of EPA and are bulked up by so called “marine oils” and contain high doses of toxic heavy metals, PCB and dioxins.
Most manufacturers recommend cod liver oil capsules as EPA supplements, even though cod liver contains high doses of toxins. The levels of EPA: DHA ratio are also very important. Studies at the University of Oxford state that EPA:DHA should be a 5:1 ratio for best effects.

Read the labels on your supplement boxes anything below 500mg of EPA: 100mg of DHA per capsule means you’re wasting your time. For severe cases a double dose / day is recommended.

What about product purity?

Manufacturers should employ “environmentally friendly systems” like CO2 extraction to remove PCB and dioxins from fish oil. It’s expensive but the only method to insure 100% pure oil. Also beware that your omega-3 is free from saturated fatty acids, which are not recommended for the heart and blood vessels. Ethyl esters are what ensure that a product is free from saturates fatty acids. Ordinary fish oil supplements use as much as 70% saturated fatty acids and are not absorbed as easily as ethyl esters of EPA and DHA are. Independent 3rd party product analysis is also important to guarantee the claims on the bottle.

The Verdict:

A ‘super diet’ inspired by the Mediterranean and Japanese diets, based on anti-oxidants and a balanced intake of Omega-3 fatty acids should keep the doctor away!

Remember to read the content of your Omega-3 supplement and know that they don’t come cheap but then whenever did we put a price tag to our health?

References
Jo Wyckman of Minami Nutrition
Richardson AJ clinical trials of fatty acids treatment in ADHD, dyslexia, dyspraxia & autistic spectrum 2004:70(4):383-90 www.fabresearch.org

Skin Lighteners are the fastest growing area in the skin care arena . In fact there is over 170 brands of different skin lighteners on the African market alone! The average consumer spends R1800 on whitening/lightening products and editors state that it is the most important trend of today!

So, what is Hyper Pigmentation?

In addition to genetics and environmental influences, skin pigmentation is effected by endocrine(hormonal) factors, genetics, inflammation, usage of prescription drugs, stress , topically applied products, including cosmetics and wound healing to the skin tissue. No matter how it is triggered , hyper-pigmentation shows as a dark brown or “age spots” and can cause an uneven , mottled skin tone!

What can we do about it?

Well knowledge is power and here are some really important facts that you need to consider when deciding to take on your pigmented skin.

It doesn’t fix itself over night!

Understand that what you see on your skin now, is as a result of your abuse of your skin over the past 12 years. So in order to change or undo the damage is going to take some time, (as much as 12-24 weeks) and if you should re –expose yourself to your trigger factor like sun or incorrect product use or trauma, stress, hormonal imbalances: it will come back again!

Avoid fly by night remedies

Scientists have recently discovered that pigmentation is not limited to the Melanocyte (pigment cell) in the epidermis but also “dangle” into the dermis. This explains why we didn’t get the results we were looking for previously as products were only designed to penetrate into the epidermis. Now we have far better results but it means that we have to use well formulated products that are designed to reach as far down as the dermis.

Beware problem ingredients

Sterols (e.g. Clobetasol) and hydroquinone as well as mercury compounds are known to have harsh effects (mutagenic and photo toxic) associated with their use. The problem is that 89% of most skin lighteners contain these ingredients. Also avoid any fragranced products- they are a “no go” zone!

Work with your skin expert

This is a battle that needs the expert knowledge of a skin professional and professional treatments protocol. It’s a complicated skin issue that needs understanding and knowledge to sort it out! We have to figure out your trigger factors and genetic predisposition in order to treat it effectively! I will share with you that I love the results I’m seeing with the Dermalogica Chromowhite line and its course of treatments…as are my clients.

Even if you have spent a lot of time in the sun or developed skin cancer, it’s never too late to begin protecting your skin. The American Academy of Dermatology (Academy) recommends that everyone protect their skin by following these sun protection practices:



Sun Protection Practices

Avoid deliberate tanning! Lying in the sun may feel good, but the end result is premature aging (wrinkles, blotchiness, and sagging skin) as well as a 1 in 5 chance of developing skin cancer. Tanning beds and sunlamps are just as dangerous because they, too, emit enough UV radiation to cause premature aging and skin cancer.

If you like the look of a tan, consider using a sunless self-tanning product. These products do not protect skin from the sun, so a sunscreen should be used.

Get vitamin D safely through a healthy diet that includes vitamin supplements. Don’t seek the sun.

Generously apply sunscreen to all exposed skin every day. The sunscreen should have a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of at least 15 and be broad-spectrum (provides protection from ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) rays).

Dermatologists worldwide agree that the Australians’ use of the word “slop!” accurately describes how sunscreen should be used. Most people do not apply enough sunscreen to help protect against harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. One ounce, enough to fill a shot glass, is considered by the Academy to be the amount needed to cover the exposed areas of the body properly. So when applying sunscreen, remember to “slop!” it on.

Here are a few more tips:

• Don’t forget your ears, nose, lips, neck, hands, and toes. Many skin cancers develop in these areas.
• Sunscreen should not be used to prolong sun exposure. Some UV light gets through sunscreen so you will always tan but not burn!
• Sunscreens should be applied to dry skin 15-30 minutes before going outdoors, and reapplied every two hours.
• Be sure to reapply sunscreen after being in water or sweating.
• Sunscreen does not make sunbathing safe.

Wear protective clothing, such as a long-sleeved shirt, pants, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses, where possible. This is what Australians call the “slip!” and “slap!” of sun protection. When you will be out in the sun, be sure to slip on protective clothing, such as a shirt, and slap on a wide-brimmed hat. Here’s why: Clothing protects your skin from the sun’s harmful rays. The tighter the weave, the more sun protection provided.
A wide-brimmed hat shades your face and neck from the sun’s rays. Wide-brimmed means the brim circles the entire hat and shades both the face and neck.

Seek shade when appropriate. The sun’s rays are strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

Use extra caution near water, snow, and sand as they reflect the damaging rays of the sun. This can increase your risk chance of sunburn.

Check your birthday suit on your birthday. If you notice anything changing, growing, or bleeding on your skin, see a dermatologist. Skin cancer is very treatable when caught early.

More Good Reasons to Practice Sun Protection

Aside from skin cancer, the sun’s UV rays also cause:

 
• Premature aging: Signs of premature aging include wrinkles, mottled skin, and loss of skin’s firmness.

 

• Immunosuppression (weakening of the body’s ability to protect itself from cancer and other diseases)

 

• Cataracts and macular degeneration: Macular degeneration, for which there is no cure, is the leading cause of blindness in people aged 65 and older.

3 Habits Parents Should Encourage for a Lifetime of Healthier Skin:

Practices that we learn early in life, such as brushing our teeth twice a day and washing our hands before eating, often become lifelong habits. To help children have a lifetime of healthier skin, dermatologist recommend that parents encourage the following habits at an early age:

• Practice Sun Protection 
Protecting a child’s skin from overexposure to the sun can significantly reduce the child’s lifetime risk of skin cancer. Some studies suggest that sun protection in children may even reduce the number of moles that develop. Fewer moles can reduce the lifetime risk of developing melanoma, a potentially deadly skin cancer.

Sun protection does not mean that your child cannot enjoy spending time outdoors.

Sunscreen tips from a dermatologist:
If your child’s skin is sensitive or prone to an allergic reaction, be sure to test the sunscreen first. Applying a dab on the child’s inside upper arm offers a reliable test. If redness or a rash develops within 24 hours, another sunscreen should be used.
A sunscreen that contains zinc oxide or titanium dioxide is less likely to cause a reaction. These ingredients sit on top of the skin.

• Avoid Tanning
The United States Department of Health & Human Services has declared ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun and artificial sources, such as tanning beds and sun lamps, as a known carcinogen (cancer-causing substance). 

Be a good role model by not getting a tan from the sun or artificial tanning devices such as tanning beds. Children are easily influenced by what they see their parents do.
• Check Skin Regularly 
Regular skin self-exams are important. In teenagers and adults, these exams can help detect skin cancer in its earliest stage. To encourage your child to perform regular skin self-exams later in life, dermatologists recommend:

  Perform regular skin exams of your child’s skin. This can encourage regular skin exams to become a habit.

  Teach your child how to perform a skin self-exam.

  Check your own skin regularly, and let your child know that you perform regular skin self-exams.

These habits are important year round. You do not to wait for a day at the beach to teach sun protection or how to perform a skin exam. You can start today.

]]> http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1553/skin-cancer-prevention-is-better-than-cure/feed/ 0 http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1537/sun-protection-practices/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=sun-protection-practices http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1537/sun-protection-practices/#comments Fri, 08 Apr 2011 12:56:09 +0000 admin http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/?p=1537 Spring is in the air. Summer knocks on our door and I love this time of the year! A new season, a new chapter and new beginnings. You have got to love it!

This perfect weather is of course the beginning of our sun season and with that comes a need to understand why sun protection is a man’s best friend. There is not a week that goes by where I don’t send one of my clients to a dermatologist for some suspicious lesion that has announced itself on their skins. These days one can never be careful enough! The problem with skin cancers is that it is less than likely to kill you but it will disfigure you and you’ll remember it every day when you look in the mirror.

They say that 1 in 3 South Africans suffer with lip or ear cancers. When ever have you put Sun protection upon your ears and yes, that is why a lip balm with a Sun protection factor(SPF) is non negotiable (Try Dermalogica’s Lip Shield spf15)!

What most of us don’t realize is that 80% of all aging seen on our skins , with it’s manifestation in the form of hyper pigmentation(dark marks), wrinkles, lines, sagging skin, broken capillaries to name but a few, is 100% preventable! Simply use a SPF on a daily basis. That’s it, no miracles in a jar, no quick fixes, just simply use a SPF! “But I work indoors” is that classic response to that statement… well you also have a quick tea break and always have to walk to the car, pick up the groceries, fetch the kids from school etc and that exposure accumulates and spells SKIN CANCER. Those short burst of exposure are remembered by your cell DNA and they reach a point where it is payback time. As long as there is light you need to protect- come rain or shine!

Sun Protection Practices

Avoid deliberate tanning! Lying in the sun may feel good, but the end result is premature aging (wrinkles, blotchiness, and sagging skin) as well as a 1 in 5 chance of developing skin cancer. Tanning beds and sunlamps are just as dangerous because they, too, emit enough UV radiation to cause premature aging and skin cancer.

If you like the look of a tan, consider using a sunless self-tanning product. These products do not protect skin from the sun, so a sunscreen should be used.

Get vitamin D safely through a healthy diet that includes vitamin supplements. Don’t seek the sun.

Generously apply sunscreen to all exposed skin every day. The sunscreen should have a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of at least 15 and be broad-spectrum (provides protection from ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) rays).

Dermatologists worldwide agree that the Australians’ use of the word “slop!” accurately describes how sunscreen should be used. Most people do not apply enough sunscreen to help protect against harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. One ounce, enough to fill a shot glass, is considered by the Academy to be the amount needed to cover the exposed areas of the body properly. So when applying sunscreen, remember to “slop!” it on.

Here are a few more tips:

• Don’t forget your ears, nose, lips, neck, hands, and toes. Many skin cancers develop in these areas.
• Sunscreen should not be used to prolong sun exposure. Some UV light gets through sunscreen so you will always tan but not burn!
• Sunscreens should be applied to dry skin 15-30 minutes before going outdoors, and reapplied every two hours.
• Be sure to reapply sunscreen after being in water or sweating.
• Sunscreen does not make sunbathing safe.

Wear protective clothing, such as a long-sleeved shirt, pants, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses, where possible. This is what Australians call the “slip!” and “slap!” of sun protection. When you will be out in the sun, be sure to slip on protective clothing, such as a shirt, and slap on a wide-brimmed hat. Here’s why: Clothing protects your skin from the sun’s harmful rays. The tighter the weave, the more sun protection provided.
A wide-brimmed hat shades your face and neck from the sun’s rays. Wide-brimmed means the brim circles the entire hat and shades both the face and neck.

Seek shade when appropriate. The sun’s rays are strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

Use extra caution near water, snow, and sand as they reflect the damaging rays of the sun. This can increase your risk chance of sunburn.

Check your birthday suit on your birthday. If you notice anything changing, growing, or bleeding on your skin, see a dermatologist.

• A factor SPF15 will give you 93.3% block out
• A factor SPF30 will give you 96.6% block out (double the chemicals and only 3% more SPF )
• A factor SPF60 will give you 96.6% block out( double the chemicals and no more sun protection)

The moral of the story is that anything higher than a SPF30 is just a marketing ploy and is expensive. Rather reapply every 2 hrs and enjoy non- sensitized protected skin!

Avoid anything that smells too good, fragrance is the number 1 chemical photosensitiser and triggers reactions on one’s skin.

Experts say that what you see on you skin now is the damage you inflicted upon your skin up to 12 years ago! So mom’s know that your child’s future skin condition lies in your hands. There is a reason why schools in Australia have a policy that kids that arrive at school without their hats are sent back home. There is also a bottle of SPF at each exit door to the play ground and teachers oversee a reapplication of SPF before play time (might I add that the government pays for the SPF). Mmm, perhaps something to think about? Happy safe sunning…

References: The International Dermal Institute

]]> http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1537/sun-protection-practices/feed/ 0 http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1509/the-changes-you-should-be-making-to-your-skin-care-routine-this-winter/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-changes-you-should-be-making-to-your-skin-care-routine-this-winter http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1509/the-changes-you-should-be-making-to-your-skin-care-routine-this-winter/#comments Fri, 08 Apr 2011 11:57:56 +0000 admin http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/?p=1509 Although winter in Durban is by far the lesser harsher climate in South Africa, you can still expect to notice that your skins needs are somewhat more demanding!
I for one noticed that my summer time face moisturizer is just not enough and it doesn’t matter how much I mask my skin, it still feels quite parched.
In the skin center we are seeing more sensitivity and allergic type skins too. Why you ask?

Well it’s quite simple: when your skin is exposed to environmental changes like heaters and then cold winter morning air, or hot showers to cold bedroom temperatures, the skin’s capillaries dilate due to the raise in temperature and simultaneously when you expose them quickly to cold temperatures, they constrict. (The same is for spicy foods and exertion in sport). Once or twice over shouldn’t present a problem but over a prolonger period you’re going to create permanently dilated capillaries or spider veins.

One of the main histological changes that occur is that the skin’s barrier function, natural protective mechanism, becomes compromised due to lack of moisture in your skin care routine. This means that the skin’s ability to retain moisture is impaired and you’ll experience increased sensitivity and dryness as all the good stuff escapes the skin and the bad stuff penetrates it, thus throwing the whole skin balance out of kilter.

The typical reaction is to layer on more moisturizer but what studies have shown us is that this is not necessarily the answer.

Skin Technology has advanced to such a stage that thicker or more does not mean better when it comes to moisturizers. Rather opt for concentrates or serums that can add moisture to your moisturizing routine. Serums work deep into the skin and change it inwardly rather than superficially.

Your skin expert should be re-evaluating your whole routine to ensure it meets your needs over winter. Although it is winter time please don’t think that you no longer need sun screen. The rule of thumb is that temperature does not dictate sun protection. As long as there is sun shine you need to protect your skin from UV rays.

What I highly recommend is that if you have a particular skin concern like pigmentation or aging sin, now is the time to consider treatment courses as you are less likely to spend time baking in the sun.

Let’s look at a skin routine and how I would consider changing it over the colder season.

Cleansers and eye make-up removers:

If you’re getting away with using a cleanser, that isn’t designed to remover make-up, over your eyes , you may find your eyes less tolerant to this over winter. Opt for a gentle eye make –up remover with no alcohol or fragrance in it please!

Cleansers remain on the skin for a very short period of time so they will not be the be-all an end-all when it comes to changing your skin. Simply ensure your cleanser is alcohol , fragrance and soap free. If your skin feels tight post cleansing, you’ll probably find that it either has alcohol, fragrance or the incorrect pH.

Toners:

If you’re still using a fragranced, alcoholic toner, this will be the death of our skin this winter. Time to move onto a toner that is designed to hydrate and soothe your skin.

Exfoliate/scrub/peels:

Often the dryness you experience could be an accumulation of dead skin cells sitting on the surface of your skin. Think of it as a piece of plastic suffocating your skin, nothing will penetrate it and nothing will nourish the dry feeling it leaves . So rid yourself of the dead skin and feel your skin breathe and look a whole bunch better.

Start by choosing the correct exfoliant to suit your skin:

• Scrubs (Mechanical exfoliation) for oily, congested skins, with no inflammation or sensitivity.
• Peels( Chemical Exfoliants) which contain hydroxy acids for more aged skins or skins that stimulate easily or even acne skins that cannot tolerate friction(as it worsens/aggravates the problem lesions).

Always remember that more is also not always better. Follow manufacturer’s instructions.

Masque:

Masques topically change the way that your skin looks and feels quickly. They are quick “response type treatments” that need to be done at least 2-3 times per week.

In winter time it’s ideal to include a masque that looks at both hydration and a small percentage of oil nourishment. It’s recommended that you masque after exfoliation for optimum results.

Serums or concentrated boosters or treatments products :

It’s the perfect time of the year to be doing more active treatments upon your skin. I love putting my clients onto courses of booster skin treatments or treating pigmentation or ageing skin concerns over winter, as you’re probably going to spend less time outdoors and are less likely to have added sun exposure which would contradict what we’re trying to achieve. With most of these treatments there is an increase in exfoliation that will make your skin slightly less tolerable to UV light and what’s more work against what we’re trying to achieve.

Using a concentrated serum to treat your skin concern would be vitally important. I also like layering different treatment concentrates like one for hydration and another for anti-ageing etc… Of course this would be dependant upon the concept of the system that you’re using. Ask your skin expert how she feels about it. If you’re on Dermalogica, your skin will love it!
Serums/concentrates bring about radical change in your skin as they have up to 80% concentrated ingredients, unlike a moisturizer that is designed to simply maintain your skin’s moisture levels.

Eye Care:

Oriental diagnosis reflects the eyelid area as your allergy zone and below the eyes your kidney zone. So often over the winter months we see many irritated eyelids. They become intolerant to product and make-up. This is your body’s way of showing you that you’ve got far too many histamines in circulation and you probably need an anti-histamine to sort it out. It’s probably not your eye cream or skin product that has caused the problem, so don’t be too quick to throw it out! Simply put it aside for a few days, once the sensitivity has subsided, you may resume its use.

If you have noticed that the lower eye is looking dark or bluish in color, note how much water you have been drinking. In winter we often drink less water as it’s cold and we would rather indulge in coffee and tea’s etc… we also tend toward warm foods that have far more salt within them. Salt dehydrates the system even further and may exacerbate this area.

It’s never too late to treat this area of the face as it’s the most vulnerable skin. It’s delicate and not as resistant to abuse; thus will age faster than the rest of your skin. So be gentle and don’t use anything harsh or aggressive over here. Eye creams are a must in my books!

Mositurisers:

As we established earlier on, a moisturizer’s function is to maintain the water balance /moisture within your skin. Think of it as a “lid on a pot”, without it everything good will escape the skin and everything bad will penetrate your skin! So never negotiate wearing a moisturizer. It’s a bare essential to skin maintenance.

Q:Will it radically change your skin?
A:Yes and no: If you’re not using any moisturizer, it will be the difference between a dull, sallow skin that stimulates more easily and is sensitive to any new climatic factor vs. a skin that behaves in the colder winter months.

Q:Will it target more specific concerns in your skin like aging or acne or sensitivity etc?
A:No , rather opt for a concentrate for specific results.

So folks, now is the time for your skin experts to re-assess your skin. Your winter skin routine must change to meet the ever changing climatic changes and lifestyle changes. Simply by changing or stepping up a concentrate or masque within your routine you’ll notice a significant difference between a healthy happy skin or a sensitized, allergy prone skin. So just go for it!

]]> http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1509/the-changes-you-should-be-making-to-your-skin-care-routine-this-winter/feed/ 0 http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1458/what-happens-to-your-skin-in-winter/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=what-happens-to-your-skin-in-winter http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1458/what-happens-to-your-skin-in-winter/#comments Fri, 08 Apr 2011 10:29:37 +0000 admin http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/?p=1458 Environmentally Sensitized Skins

You would have noticed that your face and body skin needs have changed significantly over this winter period. Environmentally stressed skin is one of the worlds fastest increasing skin phenomena’s and the chances are you are experiencing some or all of the following symptoms:

• Increased sensitivity especially on the cheek area
• Dehydration
• Accelerated ageing lines
• Itchy skin or a skin that suddenly reacts to anything or everything
• On your body: fine rash or ever thirsty skin that no moisturizer seems to quench
• Eczema sufferers are probably at their worst

Did you know

With decreased temperatures your skin will produce 10% less oil for each degree drop in temperature. (The opposite in summer months.) So this will leave your skin feeling drier and tighter.

As we’re surrounded by building construction, you are inhaling polluted air (Reactive oxygen + polluted air= Ozone) which is responsible for destroying your skins natural immune response. Interestingly, Oriental Diagnosis suggests that there is link between lung stress and skin stress (especially visible in your cheek area) Asthmatic sufferers/ hay fever sufferers will know all about the redness and broken capillaries around the cheek and nose areas of their face, let alone the flare up of eczema. Often we refer to these sufferers as Atopic.

By ingesting foods that are toxin ridden with preservatives and artificial additives etc. we pollute our bodies.
And if that is not enough we are more stressed and pressured than ever before.

So what does this mean

We are living, walking toxic waste dumps! Your body has every right to show you that it’s not happy; however it chooses to manifest itself. And this has everything to do with why your skin is not coping with the environmental changes: it’s too busy dealing with its own internal attack.

So what are we going to do about it

Well let’s start off with looking at where you’re at in terms of your lifestyle and how your body is coping with its demands.

Balance is key and what you put in, is what you’re going to get out!
I live by the 80 / 20 principle. 80% good, 20% bad! This applies to diet and exercise.
Are you creating your balance between work and play? And when you play, are you doing activities that are also contributing to bringing about your balance?

Are you an Adrenalin Junkie

If you’re in a high, fast paced career, a kata box or spinning class everyday is not going to bring balance to your already high adrenalin life. Playing golf, practicing yoga or Pilates class will do your body far more good.

Do you see a Skin Care Expert

Are you in the care of a professional skin expert that is discussing and monitoring your skin changes from month to month, and customizing your treatment? It’s not good enough to have the same treatment month in and month out, when your skin is presenting changes.

Less is more

Less is often more in your routine. Your body’s histamine levels increase due to internal and external stressors and thus is more reactive.

Avoid

• Trying too many new products, stick with what has worked in the past
• Fragranced products at all costs
• Temperature extremes, it simply compromises your skins natural moisture control mechanism and also increases broken capillaries
• Smoking and alcohol
• Once the sensitivity has calmed, one can increase Micro exfoliation and active products
• Weekly mechanical exfoliation (body scrubs, buffing cloths) is key to insure optimum maintained body moisture

In essence there is no need to scratch on the word DRY this winter, all you need to do is take stock and make some lifestyle changes. You are what you decide!

]]> http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1458/what-happens-to-your-skin-in-winter/feed/ 0 http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1/hello-world/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=hello-world http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1/hello-world/#comments Wed, 09 Mar 2011 09:12:56 +0000 admin http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/?p=1 A recent study published in the Public Library of Science Medicine, and reported widely in the press recently, showed that a number of anti-depressant drugs including Prozac, Seroxat and Efexor were little more effective than a placebo for treating depression. Yet, with more people than ever seeking help for depression – and current prescriptions for anti-depressants at record levels – is there any alternative?

In fact, there is much that can be done nutritionally to tackle depression. The conventional approach is to give a drug that alters the body’s biochemistry – typically to increase levels of neurotransmitters such as serotonin, that helps keep us happy, or adrenalin/noradrenlin, that helps us stay motivated. But brain health and neurotransmitter production can also be improved with nutrition:

Balance your blood sugar

There is a direct link between mood and blood sugar balance – your brain runs on glucose and the more uneven your blood sugar supply the more uneven your mood. For balanced blood sugar levels:

• Avoid sugary foods and refined carbohydrates such as white rice, white bread and processed breakfast cereals
• Eat whole foods such as whole grains (especially oats), lentils, nuts, seeds, fresh fruit and vegetables
• Combine protein foods with carbohydrates – for example, have fish with your pasta, or nuts and seeds with your cereal or fruit
• Cut right back on stimulants such as tea, coffee, chocolate and cigarettes as these increase levels of the stress hormones adrenaline and cortisol, which in turn increase blood sugar levels.

Consider supplementing chromium

Chromium is vital for keeping your blood sugar level stable because insulin can’t work properly without it. Chromium is highly effective in relieving atypical depression characterized by sugar cravings, gaining weight and feeling tired all the time – in fact just taking proper levels of chromium can make a big difference to certain depressed people.

Ensure optimum levels of omega-3 fish oils

The higher your blood level of omega-3 fats, the higher your levels of serotonin are likely to be. This may be because omega 3s help to build your brain’s neuronal connections as well as the receptor sites for neurotransmitters; therefore, the more omega 3s in your blood, the more serotonin you are likely to make and the more responsive you become to its effects.

A recent trial by Jazayeri et al published in the Australian and New Journal of Psychiatry (March 2008) showed EPA to be slightly more effective than the anti-depressant fluoxetine. The richest dietary source of omega 3 fats is from carnivorous cold water fish, such as salmon, mackerel and herring. The best seeds are flax and pumpkin seeds. If supplementing omega 3 fish oils you are aiming for about 1000 mg of EPA a day for a mood boosting effect. That means supplementing a concentrated Omega 3 Fish Oil capsule providing 500mg, once or twice a day and eating a serving of fish three times a week.

Check your homocysteine level and get enough B vitamins

People with either low blood levels of the B-vitamin folic acid, or high blood levels of the protein homocysteine, (a sign that you are not getting enough B6, B12 or folic acid) are both more likely to be depressed and less likely to get a positive result from anti-depressant drugs. Eat foods rich in these nutrients such as whole foods, fruit, vegetables, seeds and nuts and supplement a good multivitamin.

Boost your serotonin with amino acids and consider supplementing 5-HTP

Serotonin is made in the body and brain from an amino acid 5-Hydroxy Tryptophan (5-HTP); which in turn is made from another amino acid called tryptophan which is found in the diet in many protein rich foods such as meat, fish, beans and eggs, while the richest source of 5-HTP is the African Griffonia bean.

Just not getting enough trpytophan is likely to make you depressed so consider supplementing it if you are not getting enough in your diet. 27 studies have shown conclusively that 5-HTP is effective in treating depression. However do not take 5-HTP without your doctor’s permission if you are currently taking anti-depressant tablets.

]]> http://www.m-e-g.co.za/meg/1/hello-world/feed/ 0